A Traveler’s Diary: Day Trip to San Blas

We had hoped to speak to the Saila, the political and spiritual leader of the tribe, but congress was in session and he was unavailable. The Saila is elected by the general congress under specific conditions - he must speak the Kuna language, be at least 60 years-old, have been born in San Blas and have attained popularity and honor within the community. Citizens must secure a permit from the Saila to leave San Blas and risk a fine if they do not return within the set time limitations. Additionally, the disciplined structure of the Kuna culture mandates that island ownership be restricted to a Kuna Indian. You might be tempted, but you cannot buy this Panamanian real estate.

Most of the populated islands are allocated to a group of families who share responsibilities for maintaining tourism. They collect money from the community to pay for maintenance of public restrooms, showers, picnic areas and camping spaces. The entrance fee to the islands is set by the Saila and ranges from $2.00-$5.00 per day and $6.00 for an overnight campsite. Basic cooking utensils are provided and coconuts, water and beer are sold at modest prices. The tranquility of the islands creates a postcard-like setting where clear waters meet arching palm trees that sway with the beat of the blowing breeze. The most popular islands you can reach by car and canoe are Mamitupu, El Porvenir, Wichi-buala, Achutupu, Karti Tupile, Kuanidup, and Yannutuppu and are between ten minutes and one hour from the now defunct airport where we parked our car.

As the sun began considering its descent we bid a sad goodbye to our faithful tour guide with well wishes for his tribal land and a promise to return. We left San Blas feeling lighter, as if we’d been privy to a well-kept secret of an undiscovered land and of people time had forgotten.

Guides of Panama, or guides to San Blas are not easy to come by, nor are Panamanian maps. If you want to replicate our road trip here’s what you’ll need:

• a 4x4 truck

• ample drinking water

• strong sun block

• single cash bills

• a good camera and an adventurous spirit.

If it is the rainy season, postpone your trip as the roads are muddy and dangerous, even with a truck and sturdy tires. The road that served as the catalyst for our trip is just over a year old - previous trekkers exchanged their four wheels and standard transmission for a mule or expensive airfare. Contrary to popular belief, the easiest route to San Blas is to drive east past the International Airport toward the Kuna comarca of Madugandi.

After paying the toll at the entrance to the Corredor Sur Highway in Panama City, you will drive 111 kilometers, 68 miles, to your final destination at Karti Airport. After exiting the highway, follow the road to December 24th Avenue towards Chepo. Remember, Chepo is the final town where you can find supplies such as food, gas or public restrooms before you reach San Blas. As you pass through the rice and cotton fields in Chepo you will see a sign on the left that notifies travelers of the government construction on El Llano – Karti Road. Turn left at the sign and enter the jungle through a small dirt road that will lead you to San Blas.

The Kuna Indians have spent generations preserving their way of life and we were privileged to have seen a glimpse into this lifestyle. We experienced the peace and tranquility of a native culture as it bumps against Western civilization. They enjoy sharing their timeless history with those who pass through, and for a brief moment they will share with you their paradise. They might not embrace our culture, but they embrace us … just as we must always remember to embrace them.